Question 1

What does it cost to move a mobile home?

Accepted Answer

It depends on distance, width, permit count, and how much setup work the new pad needs — those four move the total far more than any published average would suggest. We do not post figures for that reason. Send us the home type and both addresses through the quote form, or email us directly, and a dispatcher prices your specific route and replies within one business day.

Question 2

Why does the site not show a price?

Accepted Answer

Because two things are unknown before we visit: the condition of the running gear, and what the destination pad needs. A number generated from a form ignores both, and correcting it later helps nobody. A dispatcher reads your route, emails you a price, and fixes it after the free site assessment.

Question 3

What drives the cost the most?

Accepted Answer

Width first, distance second. Width sets the permit class and the escort requirement, and those apply for every mile of the route. A double-wide travelling 300 miles usually costs more than a single-wide travelling 500.

Question 4

Is the price negotiable?

Accepted Answer

The rate per loaded mile is not, because it reflects fuel, escorts, and permits we pay out at cost. The scope is. Flexible dates let us run your home on a backhaul lane instead of sending a truck out empty; handling disconnect and skirting removal yourself, using your own contractor for pad prep or septic, or splitting transport now and setup later all take real money off the total. Tell us what you can flex when you request a quote, or email us after, and the price we send already accounts for it.

Question 5

Is a deposit required?

Accepted Answer

Yes, once the quote is fixed and the move date is booked. The deposit covers permit filing and escort booking, both of which we pay out before your home moves. It is credited against the final invoice.

Question 6

Is moving cheaper than buying a replacement?

Accepted Answer

Almost always, if the home is structurally sound. A relocation typically costs a fraction of a comparable new manufactured home, and you keep a structure that has already passed inspection. Demolition costs money and returns nothing.

Question 7

Do I need permits, and who pulls them?

Accepted Answer

Yes, and we do. Every state your home passes through requires an oversize permit, and many counties add their own conditions on top. We pull all of them in our name, so the compliance sits with the carrier rather than with you.

Question 8

Can I move my own home to save money?

Accepted Answer

In practice, no. Transporting a manufactured home on public roads requires operating authority, oversize permits, and insurance that private owners cannot obtain. Attempting it without them is illegal in every state we serve, and it voids most homeowner policies.

Question 9

When are escorts required?

Accepted Answer

Thresholds vary by state, but anything past 12 feet wide triggers at least one pilot car nearly everywhere. Triple-wides and the widest modulars often require two escorts, and in some states a law enforcement escort on specific corridors.

Question 10

What happens if a permit is denied?

Accepted Answer

We reroute. A denial is usually about a specific bridge, a construction closure, or a time-of-day restriction rather than about the move itself. We identify it during the route survey, before you have a date on the calendar.

Question 11

Can my home actually be moved?

Accepted Answer

Age, frame condition, and prior repairs decide it more than anything else. Homes built after 1976 carry a HUD tag and are usually movable. We assess the frame, the axles, and the roof structure before we commit — and we will tell you plainly if the home should not travel.

Question 12

What about a pre-1976 home?

Accepted Answer

It is harder. Pre-HUD homes were built to no national standard, many have frames that will not survive the lift, and several states restrict them on public roads. We assess them case by case and turn down the ones that would not arrive intact.

Question 13

Do I need to empty the home first?

Accepted Answer

Mostly, yes. Remove everything loose, everything breakable, and anything heavy that is not fastened down. Built-in cabinetry and appliances that are secured can usually stay. We give you a written checklist ahead of the move date.

Question 14

Will the move damage the home?

Accepted Answer

Minor drywall cracking at corners and seams is normal and easily patched. Structural damage is not normal, and it is what the frame inspection, the correct equipment, and a surveyed route exist to prevent.

Question 15

Can a home be moved twice?

Accepted Answer

Yes. We have customers on their third relocation. Each move adds stress to the frame, so we inspect more carefully each time, but there is no fixed limit on a well-built home in good condition.

Question 16

How long does a move take?

Accepted Answer

The haul itself is usually one to three days. The full project — assessment, permits, disconnect, transport, set, and reconnect — typically runs two to four weeks, with permit turnaround being the most common source of delay.

Question 17

What is the longest lead item?

Accepted Answer

Septic. If the destination needs a new system, the perc test and health department permit can take four to six weeks on their own. We start that work the day the destination is confirmed, in parallel with everything else.

Question 18

Can you move in winter?

Accepted Answer

In most of our coverage, yes. Mountain states are the exception: passes close to oversize loads, and spring thaw weight restrictions can shut secondary roads for weeks. We schedule around both rather than through them.

Question 19

What happens if weather delays the move?

Accepted Answer

We reschedule at no charge. Oversize permits carry wind and visibility restrictions and we hold to them. A delayed move costs you a few days; a move made in bad conditions can cost you the home.

Question 20

What insurance covers the home in transit?

Accepted Answer

Our cargo policy covers the structure while it is on our equipment, and our liability policy covers the operation itself. We issue certificates directly to you or your lender before the move date, on request.

Question 21

Should I tell my homeowner's insurer?

Accepted Answer

Yes, before the move. Most policies have conditions tied to the home's location, and several exclude coverage during transit entirely. Your insurer needs the new address and the move date on record.

Question 22

What if my home is financed?

Accepted Answer

Your lender almost certainly requires written notice and proof of the carrier's insurance before the home moves. We provide the certificates directly to them. Moving a financed home without notice can trigger a default clause.

Question 23

Who is liable if something goes wrong on the road?

Accepted Answer

We are. The permits are filed under our authority, the equipment is ours, and the operation is insured in our name. That is the practical reason owner-arranged moves are a bad idea even where they are technically possible.

Straight answers, including the ones that cost us work.

Cost & pricing

Permits & legality

Your home

Timeline

Insurance & liability

Still just want to know what it costs?